The 2004 Barbaresco Valeirano is even better than the Gallina. Made in a fresher, more structured style than the Gallina, it is a gorgeous, poised wine with ripe fruit, menthol, spices, truffles and sweet toasted oak notes. Still backward, it is the most structured of these 2004 Barbarescos, and will require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. This is a very strong set of releases from La Spinetta and proprietor Giorgio Rivetti. The 2004 Barbarescos are easily the best of his career. The wines still see 100% new French oak, but toast levels have been reduced and the Barbarescos now spend 12 months in oak rather than the 18 months they saw in previous vintages. Both changes have had a remarkably positive effect in allowing more site-specific character and Nebbiolo fruit to come through. The 2003 Barolo Campè shows that Rivetti is making important strides with this wine as well. Only the 2005 Barberas are disappointing, but that is not entirely surprising given the uneven growing season. In the past La Spinetta was an estate that relied just as much on style as substance. The 2004 Barbarescos, and especially the Starderi, are the first wines that truly live up to the glamorous image that Giorgio Rivetti has masterfully succeeded in creating. Importer: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300