When Laurent filled my glass with the 1996 Volnay Clos des Chenes my expectations were high because I had been enthralled with the 1995. However, this medium-to-dark ruby-colored, and well-made wine, did not inspire me. It offers beautiful black cherry and floral aromas as well as a medium-to-full-bodied, well-balanced, and silky-textured personality. Blackberries, cherries, and black raspberries are found in this toasty, and spicy wine. Where is the concentration, power, and depth I found in the 1995? Laurent informed me that the wine was produced from the same old vine source as the previous vintage. Could it be that the yields were too high? Anticipated maturity: now-2004. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-84-38-22), various American importers (starting with the 1997 vintage Laurent will be represented by a number of US importers/brokers, including Lesec, Jeffrey Davies, and Martin-Scott.