I tasted a barrel sample of the 2009 Numerus Clausus. It comes from a 115-hectare parcel, “El Perdiguero,” which is apparently inhabited by partridges. It is raised and matured in French barriques from three coopers: Seguin Moreau, Radoux and Sylvain. This had been in new oak for three years and due to be bottled a few weeks after my tasting. It offers a lush, creamy, well-defined bouquet of ripe red berry fruit laced with violets, vanilla, blueberry jam and wild strawberry – all very seductive thanks as much to the oak regime as the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with mocha-tinged black fruit on the entry. It is very well-balanced, soft on the entry, but certainly displaying good structure. This is an elegant, refined wine with very fine tannins towards the finish imparting focus and poise. It has handled the oak extremely well and should evolve into a sophisticated Cigales red. Drink 2015-2022. Cigales is a region of mainly small, rudimentary, functional wineries without the frills, and therefore the 12 million euros invested by Baron de Ley means that their enormous facility stands out on this unpopulated landscape, looking imperiously over the Pisuerga valley. It is an enormous, modern facility with seemingly endless rows of barrels. It was their first venture beyond the confines of Rioja, having identified Cigales as a region that could offer potential value for money. Four million euros was invested in their 185 hectares of vineyards, planted with predominantly Tempranillo and 41 hectares containing vines in excess of 60 years. There is an additional 100 hectares of vines under long-term contract. Despite its size, the fruit is harvested manually and around 10% is de-selected on the sorting table. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and aged in French and American oak – 5,300 barriques in total. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700