Torres claims to be serious about Ribera del Duero, but early on the Celeste wines, made from purchased grapes, are so-so at best. The 2004 is a touch damp and leathery on the nose, with toasty dark cherries as the driving flavor. It’s got some weight but it’s also drying and oaky on the finish. Needs some fine tuning.——M.S.(6/1/2007)—— 84