Opening with fruity, bubble gum scents, this barrel-fermented (in new French oak) old-vine Chenin Blanc has a delicious toasty, bready flavor, sweet lemony acids, and plenty of peachy fruit, without being unctuous or heavy. The broad and toasty mid-palate seems to extend indefinitely; it just never stops.——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 92