The saturated, medium to dark ruby-colored 1998 Merlot Pepper Bridge is full-bodied, thickly textured, and coats the palate with layered black fruit flavors. It is highly extracted, concentrated, and has admirable depth of fruit. This well-structured, powerful, and intense wine should be at its best between 2004 and 2012.Tel. (206) 463-3290.

Young, tart loganberry fruit dominates, braced with crisp acidity and buttressed with slightly chalky tannins. Some minor off notes suggest garlic and sweaty socks. Needs time.——P.G.(9/1/2000)—— 86