Cortese’s 2009 Dolcetto d’Alba Trifolera is beautifully ripe and seductive in this vintage. Layers of dark fruit come together nicely in a textured, opulent wine of notable harmony and finesse. The Dolcetto can sometimes be a touch rustic here, but not in 2009. This is a winner from Cortese. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Dolcetto Trifolera opens with round and generous berry flavors of cherry, blueberry and blackberry backed by a thick, rich but one-dimensional mouthfeel. This is an plump, easy wine to pair with roast beef or meatloaf. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 87