The vineyard blends begin with the 2008 Ciel du Cheval. It is composed of 36% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 32% Cabernet Franc. Alluring aromas of pain grille, pencil lead, violets, incense, black currant, and blackberry inform the nose of a spicy, layered, impeccably balanced and structured wine that will benefit from 3-4 years of cellaring. Andrew Will, located on Vashon Island, a short ferry-ride from Seattle, is where Chris Camarda fashions his blended, Bordeaux-style wines. In the 2008 vintage Camarda began producing two varietal wines at a lower price point due to the recession. In 2009 he has done the same but with vineyard designations.Tel. (206) 463-9227; www.andrewwill.com

Winemaker Chris Camarda is antiformulaic; his wines in 2008 feature radically different blends from the 2007s. This is a third each Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cab Franc. It reflects the vineyard’s penchant for tart berry fruit set atop astringent, mineral-driven tannins. It’s tight and dense, with vertical power. Flavors roll gracefully into a medium-length finish. ——P.G.(11/1/2011)—— 93