The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Les Rouges du Dessus is made from purchased fruit (although Burguet harvests the fruit himself) sourced from a parcel above Echezeaux. It is a tightly coiled, inward wine that doesn’t seem to have quite the purity and harmony of the best of the 2009s here. This will require a certain amount of bottle age, but it is likely to remain a firm, masculine Burgundy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Vintage 2009 seems to have played to Alain Burguet’s strengths. These are some of the finest wines I have ever tasted from this small domaine in Gevrey. Burguet began harvesting on September 21, quite late in 2009, in keeping with his continued search for achieving as much phenolic ripeness as possible. Burguet works in a fairly natural manner, with no herbicides or pesticides in the vineyards. The fruit is 100% destemmed. The wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts and are bottled with no fining or filtration. The 2009s show gorgeous pliancy, radiance and fabulous overall balance. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700, AOC Imports, CA; tel. (415) 279-8708; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640