Cima is just now releasing its 2002 vintage. It’s a brave project, which is attempting to make a super Tuscan-style of wine using Washington grapes. Cima is not there yet, but the ’02 is a big step forward, with more texture, weight and depth than the rather bland 2001. Here there is fruit substantial enough to carry extra flavors of wood spice, butter and caramel with grace. ——P.G.(7/1/2008)—— 90