The 2006 Roero Riserva Giovanni Almondo is the biggest and richest of these Roeros. It also shows the most influence of French oak and comes very close to being out of balance. There is just enough intensity in the dark fruit and sweet mentholated nuances to provide a counter, but at the end of the day, the fruit is so striking in its beauty I can only wonder what level this Riserva might reach with a more subtle approach to oak aging. Still, there is no denying the Riserva’s considerable beauty. Hints of smoke and minerals add further nuance on the wonderfully polished, refined finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Almondo is an excellent source for varietally true, expressive wines from Roero. The red Roeros are particularly impressive this year. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644

This Roero Riserva delivers a sophisticated nose with deep layers of spice, dark fruit and pressed flowers. The wine is bright and clean in the mouth with extremely drying tannins and lingering smoke and toast nuances.——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 89