Domaine Alice et Olivier de Moor Bourgogne Aligote, Burgundy, France

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From young vines in Chitry, their 2006 Bourgogne Aligote displays a surprising amount of sheer stuffing, with typical scents and flavors of lemon pip, cherries and toasted almonds, chicken stock, and herbs. Clear, refined, and refreshing in finish for all of its doughy substantiality, this will prove highly versatile if never outstandingly complex over the next couple of years. With only a 35 hectoliter per hectare average yield, and given batches of high-alcohol Saint Bris and Chablis stuck with more than merely awkward residual sugar (as of last winter), one could hardly call 2006 a commercially successful year for the De Moors. But their best wines from this vintage are nonetheless admirable.Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9812