The 2009 Thorevilos displays a stunningly blue/purple color along with an exceptional nose of blueberry and blackberry liqueur intermixed with espresso, white chocolate and violets. With unbelievable intensity, a great, full-bodied mouthfeel, stunning purity, a subtle hint of wood, but no hard edges, this is one 2009 that does not have that broodingly tannic structure that is common in this vintage. This sensational effort can be drunk early on or cellared for another three decades.

The 2009 Proprietary Red Thorevilos is big, big, big. The deepest and most inward of Abreu's 2009s, the Thorevilos shows none of the sexiness and early appeal of the Cappella or Madrona Ranch. Compact masses of dark, incredibly primary fruit remain virtually impenetrable. Occasionally a hint of tar, mocha, graphite and pencil shavings make a brief appearance, but for most of the time the 2009 remains incredibly tight. Readers will have to be exceptionally patient with the 2009.