It’s mostly C (Chardonnay) and S (Sauvignon Blanc) with a splash of Marsanne providing the “M” that complements the well-established CMS Red. Each of the grapes adds something special and the whole seems to be more than the sum of its parts. The Sauv Blanc lifts it, giving it vivid acid and bright herb; the Chardonnay fills in round apple and pear flavors, and the little bit of Marsanne adds peach to the fruit. ——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 88