The dark ruby 2009 Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale (a blend of 60% Grenache and a whopping 40% Syrah, with the Grenache aged in foudres and the Syrah in small oak) has a full-bodied mouthfeel with loads of glycerin. (I am sure the alcohol is 15% plus.) This wine, displaying notes of black cherries intermixed with black currants, licorice and forest floor as well as hints of incense and camphor, is very well made. Luscious and expansive, it is ideal for drinking over the next 10-15 years. Michel Maret’s estate of 45+ acres is primarily in the eastern and northern sectors of the appellation, with large holdings in La Crau and the well-known lieu-dit of Brusquieres. His daughters, Caroline and Veronique, seem to be taking over more and more of the responsibilities and add to the remarkable number of women who seem to be in positions of influence and control in Chateauneuf du Pape. There are always four cuvees in the top vintages, but the Marets have added a fifth cuvee, dominated by Mourvedre with the balance Grenache, called L’Envol. This wine is a completely different take on Chateauneuf du Pape, one I am seeing appear more frequently in my tastings. The 2009s all performed better out of bottle than they did last year. These are classic, traditional styles of Chateauneuf du Pape. As insiders know, the finest value from the Maret family is their Vacqueyras made from the 10 acres they own in that appellation.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173
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