Unclassified growth cru bourgeois Pauillacs are rare indeed, and here is an awfully good one. Spicy oak, espresso and black currants jump from the glass of this medium to full-bodied, concentrated 2009, which is of classified growth quality. This sleeper of the vintage should drink well for at least a decade. (A member of the Association of Crus Bourgeois du Medoc.)

Good colour, good supple fruit with some depth. Drink 2013-16. (15.5 points)

90-92 Barrel sample. Complex wine, very smooth and polished, the sweet tannins softened by wood. There is a great vanilla character over the wafts of ripe fruit.——R.V.(8/9/2010)—— 91