The 2011 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard emerges from a site on the Sonoma Coast seven miles from the ocean, just above Occidental. Apricots, peaches, wild flowers, nectarine and smoke are some of the multiple nuances in the glass. The UV-SL is another of the richer, more textured wines in the lineup. At the same time, the 2011 is a wine of vivid nuance, transparency and crystalline purity. Here, too, the 100% new oak barrels are totally integrated. It is so rare to find so much detail in this creamy, big Chardonnay, but it’s all there. This is another utterly impeccable wine from Mark Aubert. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2018. Mark Aubert has a brand new tasting room that is intimate and clubby. By the time I got to Aubert, I had tasted most of the Sonoma reference points. With that as a backdrop, these wines stood out for their sheer pedigrees. This is a world-class operation in every way. Because of the late, cool year, Aubert’s 2011 Chardonnays are a bit brighter and more focused than is the norm. In other words, the wines are deeply marked by the signatures of the year. Interestingly, that is not the case with the Pinots, which are pretty much in line with the juicy, generous style Aubert fans have become accustomed to. In contrast to the Chardonnay harvest, in 2011, there were no declassified Pinot lots. One of the developments at Aubert over the last few years is an increased focus on estate vineyards. As part of that trend, readers will see several additions to the range, while Aubert has decided to discontinue his Reuling Chardonnay. Tel. (707) 963-4569