You’ll love this wine for the sheer voluptuousness of the flavors. It makes love to the palate, caressing it with dry, velvety softness and delivering ripe berry flavors filled with sweetness and purity. It’s lipsmackingly good, and a fine example of how good this old California varietal can be, albeit with a sort of ruggedness. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 91