Lentil, fresh spinach, nutmeg, and pungent herbs in the nose of the 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg set the stage for another ripe, juicy, open and accessible bowl of fresh melons, this time along with plums, lentils, green herbs, brown spices, and a touch of white pepper. For all of its immediate appeal, there’s no overlooking the depth and complexity of this wine, including saline, stony, and chalky mineral suggestions. Like many of the best 2006s, it offers glycerin richness and advanced ripeness, yet delicacy and lift; immediate, generous sensuousness, yet (literally and metaphorically) a lot to chew on.The most exciting collection I have thus far tasted at this address – like a number of those in the Wachau – departs from the script that was written very early, touting 2006 as a “Gruner Veltliner vintage.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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