From a pioneer of this appellation, a full-throttle wine involving lots of new French oak. The flavors veer toward ripe peaches and apples and the acidity is predictably high, given its origins. There’s a lovely, creamy mouthfeel. One criticism: Excessive sweetness. Tastes like it has some residual sugar that doesn’t belong there. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 85