I was surprised that the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Leonardini Vineyard did not perform better. A dark ruby/purple-colored effort, with a textbook cassis, spicy, oaky, earthy-scented bouquet, and fleshy, moderately tannic flavors, it is good, but not inspiring. This elegantly-styled Cabernet lacks the extra flavor and richness dimensions required to merit a higher rating. Consume it over the next 6-7 years. Tel. (707) 963-9454; Fax (707) 963-7035

A bouquet of dark red fruits and heavy cedar accents opens this even, well-balanced offering. Looks and tastes mature; the dry, cherry-chocolate flavors are forward, and it closes with handsome tobacco and cedar notes. Appealing and ready to go. Drink now to 2004.——W.E.(11/1/2000)—— 90