Beginning in 2007 (see my review in issue 178), Leitz added the first dry wine to his volume drivers, and the 2008 Riesling Eins Zwei Dry is every bit as irresistible and versatile as its predecessor. A site-typical resinous, smoky, sea breeze aromatic melange finds its pungent and invigorating counterpart on a bright yet substantial palate brimming with lemon and salted peach, and finishing with lip-smacking, sappy persistence. Enjoy this over the next 3-4 years. I hate to end an enthusiastic review on a down note, but the not entirely healthy state of Rheingau viticulture can be inferred from the mere existence of this outstanding value. It’s 100% Geisenheimer Rothenberg, which in terms of terroir quality is as if, say, Frederic Mugnier were bottling as Bourgogne a Pinot sourced entirely from neighbors’ Chambolle premier cru Charmes. And, incidentally, Leitz harvested the Rothenberg in mid-November! As intimated in my introduction to this report, 2008 was – to now borrow Johannes Leitz’s phrase – a year for Rudesheim, in which these steep, notoriously optimal (but, of late frequently hyper-effective) Riesling-ripening slopes could show their stuff. We starting picking on October 6, relates Leitz, and we genuinely harvested through until November 20. Genuinely harvested. There are a lot of growers who because they left one wine hanging and then harvested it on, say, November 15 will tell you that they harvested until November 15. We were at it nearly the whole time. A majority of Leitz’s production continues to consist of wines from contract fruit that are exported, mostly to the U.S. I have been praising the superb value offered by this range of bottlings ever since – in their fifth vintage – the sensational bottled fruits of Leitz’s young vines in the Rudesheimer Drachenstein were re-christened as Dragonstone Riesling. Within a few years, Leitz had an established brand that required him to contract for increasing amounts of fruit, which continued over the years until now a significant share of the Drachenstein’s extensive acreage feeds his pipeline. Importer:Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300

Light, not too dry and very elegant for a Rheingau Riesling.