The Girardin 2006 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet (of which there are just shy of a dozen barriques) features honey, butterscotch, glazed pineapple, and lemon candy. Smelling like a confectionary shop, it offers a creamy, rich, opulent palate, yet manages not to be over-blown, and finishes with length, refinement, and a surprisingly low-key combination of sedate creaminess and pure, juicy citrus. While in no way dramatic, this promises to be a lovely example of its vintage and site, and one probably best enjoyed over the next half dozen years. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.