The 2008 Pinot Noir takes time to coalesce in the glass, but gains intensity, revealing black cherry, a touch of iodine, violets and a faint tinny element. The palate is medium-bodied, quite fleshy, clean and crisp, though lacking some complexity towards the blueberry-tinged finish that shows a little heat. No known American importer.

Seems a little lean and lacking volume, but this wine makes up for it with attractively smoke-accented aromas and flavors of tart cherries and thyme. Try this crisp, rather linear wine with salmon. ——J.C.(4/1/2011)—— 85