The 2008 LOIOS, one of Ramos’ entry level wines, is often a decent under $10 value. This year’s version is lacking in mid-palate concentration (what do you want for under $10?), but it is nonetheless bright and charming, friendly and fun, while remaining as real wine, not some fruit bomb. The acidity does it some good. There is a bit of a kirsch note that gives this just a little flamboyance. I suspect this will be a party favorite for uncomplicated drinking. Drink now. Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand and Red Leg: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado); for Conde de Vimioso (Falua) brand: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843 (Washington, Portland and California) and Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044 (New England, New Jersey and New York).

Named after local monks (the Loios), this is a fruity, forward wine, with spice, some stalkiness, but also juice, fresh berries and some solid tannins. To drink soon.——R.V.(11/1/2009)—— 85