Chalone’s flagship wine in its youth is dark, dense, heavy and tannic. It doesn’t show much finesse, and is almost Rhone-like. The winemaker marches to the beat of a drummer who is out of sync with light, delicate Pinot Noirs, but aficionados will stick it in their cellars anyway and keep their fingers crossed. ——S.H.(2/1/2004)—— 86