Girardin has the luxury of fielding two bottlings of 2006 Corton Charlemagne. This first hails from lower-elevation parcels in all three communes that share this grand cru. Lemon, lime, and overt stone and chalk dominate the nose and palate here, and the sheer finishing refreshment of citrus helps ward off the hint of warmth and keep the mineral cast from rendering this impressively-concentrated wine too austere. Still, this will demand some patience, and should cellar well for at least 6-8 years. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.