The 2004 Pinot Noir “Jessie Vineyard” is four-square and lacking in complexity although the fruit is dense and flavorful. Tel. (503) 375-3068; www.cristomwines.com. Also tasted: 2005 Pinot Gris (81), 2006 Pinot Gris Estate (88), 2005 Viognier Estate (90), 2004 Pinot Noir “Mt. Jefferson” (83), 2003 Syrah Estate (90), 2004 Syrah Estate (92+)

Past vintages of Jessie have been big, brawny wines, but in ’04 this too seems to be a bit tired and dried out. The herbal flavors dominate; in truth it is difficult to distinguish this as different from the Sommers Reserve. ——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 87