The 2000 Nipozzano Riserva comes from the historic core of the family’s holdings in the Chianti Rufina zone. The plum and berry fruit is lightly and discreetly spiced by the oak, and the round, supple flavors show more than adequate depth and force on the finish. Drink: 2005-2014. Importer: Robert Mondavi Imports, Napa, CA; tel. (800) 228-2442

One of the few ratings where unanimity was lacking. Part of the panel appreciated the wine’s assertiveness, while finding a wiry blackberry foundation and character-adding herbal qualities, while the other part disapproved of the fruit quality, finding it stewed yet still too tannic.——W.E.(4/1/2005)—— 86