The 2006 Pinot Noir Deux Verres is a regional blend from nine vineyards. It was aged for 13 months in 29% new French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it reveals aromas of damp earth, tobacco, spice box, and cherry. Supple textured with good depth and concentration, it has gobs of savory, spicy fruit and a lengthy finish. Drink it over the next four years. Torii Mor Winery was founded in 1993 by Dr. Donald and Margie Olson who continue to actively operate the winery. The winery produces 15-18,000 cases, mostly from the Dundee Hills AVA.Tel. (503) 538-4001; www.toriimorwinery.com

This blend of many vineyard lots seems less than the sum of its parts. Pungently herbal with characteristic Oregon tomato leaf tannins, its fruit remains hidden beneath the tannins. Age may enhance its beauty, but for the moment it remains tight and unyielding, with suggestions of heat around the cranberry/pomegranate fruit.——P.G.(7/1/2008)—— 86