Deep garnet colored, the 2004 The Governor Syrah is scented of warm plums, spice cake, aniseed and bacon fat with an undercurrent of dried Chinese plums and soy. Rich, concentrated and medium to full bodied, it has a good line of crisp acid and velvety tannins, finishing long and layered. Delicious now, it should continue to cellar to 2017+. During my visit to McLaren Vale, I tasted a small vertical of Aramis’ The Governor Syrah with the winery’s managing director, Lee Flourentzou. The Aramis vineyard is in Willunga, a relatively cool climate pocket just 1.5 miles from the ocean. The wines are now made by the highly skilled winemaker at Chapel Hill, Michael Fragos. Only 300-400 cases of the winery’s flagship, The Governor, are made every year.Importer: John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection; www.tapwc.com.au