Weingart’s planting of Pinot Noir in two small sections of Engelstein that are within his home town of Spay bore impressive (if scarce) fruit it its first vintage, and his 2006 Spay Spatburgunder trocken, follows suit. Plums, dried cherries, lavender, resin, and leather in the nose lead to an attractively frisky, subtly tart palate that offers a fascinating interplay of fresh fruit, herb, and savory carnal and mineral elements. Cardamom adds a lovely hint of spice to this subtle Pinot’s refreshing and intriguing finish. Call it a sign of global warming; call it fanaticism, call it what you will: Weingart Pinot Noirs should be taken as seriously as they are easy to drink. And I include in that judgment a light-weight but perfumed and mouth-filling 2007 tasted from cask. Florian Weingart’s reputation continues to mount, but he remains always the self-effacing and astute observer of wine, very much including his own. Given the amount of nobly sweet wine produced here in 2006 and the sometimes problematic quality of the botrytis that appeared this year, the estate essayed little in that genre this year, much of which moreover ended up as blending material.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300