There’s under 500 cases of the terrific 2006 Cornas Granit 60 Vieilles Vignes, which comes from the Patou, Mazards and Sauman parcels in the appellation. Aged 15 months in older barrels and tank, it offers perfumed notes of black and blue fruits, mint and incense, with good acidity and a layered, sexy, textured style on the palate that makes it a joy to drink. It’s another 2006 that blossoms with time in the glass and shines for its charm and pure drinkability.

More structured, backward, and savage, the muscular, masculine, inky/purple-tinged 2006 Cornas Granite 60 Vieilles Vignes begs to be forgotten for 3-5 years, and drunk over the following 15 years. It is a classic example of rustic, uncivilized Cornas that is loaded with potential. These impressive, quasi-modern-styled Cornas reveal the influence of barrique aging, but there is no doubting their savage blast of blue and black fruits as well as spring flowers. In 2007, Paris has added a third cuvee from one of the most highly respected vineyard sites high on the steep hills of Cornas, La Geynale.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers) Paris, fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29