A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan, Cinsault, and like the majority of wines here, matured primarily in 500 liter barrels, only a small percentage of which are new – the Cal Demoura 2006 Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac L’Infidele displays an uncanny combination of palate richness and viscosity with vivacious brightness of fruit and fine-grained tannin. Plum, cherry, bay, raw beef, dark chocolate, and black pepper all vie for attention, along with undertones of caulk and wet stone, and tart fruit skin and pepper lend an especially brash cast to the finish. Based on the evolution of wines from the era of Jullien ownership – in homage to which, with certain attempts at improvement, this cuvee is explicitly intended – I have no worry about projecting a decade of rewarding evolution. And based on the pricing of recent vintages, this should also represent an excellent value. Burgundy-trained Vincent Goumard and his wife Isabelle took over this estate from retiring founder Jean-Pierre Jullien in 2004, and have developed a wide range of new acreage, all of it close to their base in Jonquieres, and thus in one of the most promising sectors of the Terrasses du Larzac. The red raw materials here are impressive, with the complexity of ripe flavors achieved in Syrah of only around 13.5% alcohol especially notable, and destined to “cool down” the final blends. Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.