A glass of this fruity, slightly off-dry wine at the cocktail hour will wake your palate up and make it sing for whatever follows. It’s hard to imagine prettier flavors of peaches, apricots and strawberries, sprinkled with dusty brown spices. The sugar isn’t high enough to make it overtly sweet, and the acidity keeps things crisp and lively.——W.E.(8/1/2001)—— 87