A terrific value, the dense ruby/purple-tinged 2002 Shiraz The Lodge Hill exhibits minty blackberry characteristics intermixed with a hint of pepper. Medium-bodied, corpulent, and fleshy, it is a delicious red for drinking over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Negociants, USA, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

This Shiraz is rich in fruit yet slender in body. There’s eucalyptus on the nose, too, backed by limestone and plum aromas. The blackberry, and even blueberry, fruit is taut yet concentrated, and brightened by refreshing eucalyptus notes. The minty-eucalyptus crispness clings on through the finish, where it’s moderated by a wheaty, pastry-crust close. At this price, and this quality, there’s really no reason not to keep a few bottles around the house. ——D.T.(9/1/2004)—— 89