Starts with muted aromas of buttercream, ginger and toffee, with peach scents that emerge as the wine warms up. It’s extremely rich and extracted, not at all like Chenins of old. It’s also dry, although the ripe fruit tastes sweet. A little soft, but pleasant; sort of a cross between a fruity Riesling and a crisp Sauvignon Blanc. ——S.H.(5/1/2001)—— 86