Rock solid and compact. This wine is true-blue Brunello, meant to be cellared for 10 or more years. Flavors of plum, cherry and currant are pure, and there’s far more fruit here than wood. But the tannins are like nails and they get harder and harder with each sip. Yes, it’s a top-flight Brunello, but hold, for best results, until 2010.——M.S.(11/15/2003)—— 93