A zesty wine with more zap and tang than one might expect. That said, it’s solid as a rock, with intense flavors of cherry, plum, carob and oak. Call it a bit obtuse, if you will. But even with woody finishing notes of vanilla and cream, this settles on fruit more so than the barrel. Carmenere (78%) with Syrah and Carignan.——M.S.(5/1/2009)—— 90