The 2006 Block 19 Cuvee, a blend of the major Bordeaux varietals, exhibits a note of graphite, and is solidly made, but is essentially a one-dimensional quaffing red. While it is not unrealistically priced, there are plenty of other similarly or lower-priced reds that offer far more character and personality. I still have some 1984 Hess Collection Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon in my cellar that is drinking beautifully, but it has been a long time since they have made wines of that quality. They seem to have settled on a middle-of-the-road, safe formula for turning out wines that are pleasant, but largely one-dimensional and uninspiring.Tel. (707) 255-1144; Fax (707) 253-1682

A very fine wine, basically a Bordeaux blend except with a splash of Syrah, which adds a meat and violet flower note to the ripe, powerful black currants. New oak shows up in the smoky, cedary overlay. It’s a tannicly dry wine, in the way of Napa mountain Cabs, but so balanced and refined, you can drink it now. Should develop through 2012.——S.H.(11/1/2009)—— 92