Some reviewers thought this wine’s medium-full mouthfeel “tangy;” others called it “brisk acidity.” In any case, the wine’s aromas and flavors are dark, dark, dark: Look forward to leather, earth and an almost matchstick note on the nose, and black fruit, bitter chocolate and “old baseball glove” in the mouth. Finishes with tobacco, leather and juicy berry fruit.——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 88