The Lecheneaut 2006 Morey-St.-Denis – from a high-elevation site above Les Chaffots, together with fruit from young vines in that cru – received 50% new wood, whose effects are less noticeable in aromas of fresh black cherry, peat, sage, and black pepper than when these migrate to the palate. An initial hint of creaminess – along with ripe dark berry fruit – is blocked in the finish by astringency, accompanied by pungent smokiness and resinous notes of oak. There are admirable concentration and a sense of energy here, and the wine may just need to knit with some time in bottle. Still, I would advocate drinking it within 3-4 years.
Vincent and Philippe Lecheneaut report having ended up with higher potential alcohol in their 2006 fruit than in 2005 – though not, they hasten to add, equally ripe flavors – and having accordingly performed scarcely any chaptalization, so that only a few of the wines finished at over 13%. The regimen of new wood was essentially unchanged from 2005, which I think worked to the disadvantage of a number of these 2006s, wines that – while very well made, and in some instances distinguished – suffer considerably by comparison with their immediate predecessors.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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