Alice et Olivier de Moor Bourgogne Aligote Plantation 1902

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The De Moor’s “regular” Aligote bottling (from vines in Chitry) was impressively concentrated but almost severe in its tart citricity, and revealed a faintly funky overtone I suspect crept in from some older barrels, but their 2008 Bourgogne Aligote Plantation 1902 (albeit at a much higher – indeed, for its variety and save for Domaine d’Auvenay record-setting – price) reveals not only the concentration born of ancient vines in Saint-Bris and their tiny, millerandanged berries, but also offers yet another demonstration that this grape’s potential is underrated. Ripe peach, cherry, lime and grapefruit along with piquant, sizzling, well-integrated notes of zest, pit, and pip are joined by saline, chalky, Saint-Bris-typical mineral inflections. This is firm and bright but not austere. Suggestions of toasted nuts no doubt reinforced by the subtle influence of barrels lend depth to a gripping finish. I suspect this will be worth following for at least 4-5 years. The high acids and sheer concentration of Alice and Olivier De Moor’s 2008 raw material came close to getting the better of a couple of their wines, making for a collection qualitatively more heterogeneous than usual, but culminating in the best Chablis I can recall from this address (which I have been visiting off and on for more than 15 years).Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191