From Lenswood, in Adelaide Hills, this wine is named for the town’s first settler. It’s 75% Merlot, with Cabernet making up the balance. It smells like mulling spices and Macintosh apples, and tastes like a compote of cherries and plums, plus some caramel. Soft in the mouth; drinkable now.——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 90