Initially somewhat restrained, the 2005 Messorio opens up with time in the glass, showing an array of dark fruit, plums, licorice and truffles, with sweet, silky-textured tannins. Even though this is a somewhat slender Messorio in relative terms, it has all the qualities of first-class Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. Le Macchiole releases its wines later than most estates on the Tuscan coast, so readers will find the 2004s in the market, while the 2005s are due to arrive this Fall. Proprietor Cinzia Merli and long-time oenologist Luca D-Attoma have turned out a glorious set of 2004s. The 2005 vintage proved to be much more challenging as the damp, fresh growing season made it hard to achieve full ripeness. These are pretty wines, but they aren't quite at the level of the estate's finest efforts. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

This offers fresh herbs and berries on the nose, with hints of coffee and vanilla. Full-bodied, soft and fruity, with a green olive undertone and lots of new wood. Builds on the palate. Tannic. Merlot. Best after 2012. 700 cases made. -JS