The latest edition of Zilliken’s 3,000-case brand, 2005 Riesling “Butterfly” A.P. #17 – based on fruit of Spatlese and Auslese must weight and finished with 11.5% alcohol – offers lovely sweet cherry, brown spice, and wet stone aromas and flavors, a satiny texture, palpable density, and a striking, roundly rich, judiciously sweet finish of cherry, kumquat, lemon oil, and honey. With his “Butterfly,” Zilliken has developed a style of Riesling – neither trocken nor quite dry-tasting, plush in texture, and far from delicate – that is highly versatile and entirely distinct from that of his other wines. A second lot of “Butterfly”, A.P. #18 – crafted with the intention of being indistinguishable – is waiting in the wings as #17's successor. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463