Most houses declared 1947 instead, but this ’48 is beautiful to taste now. Starts off almost meaty or coffee-like, then shows more plum and prune notes, while delicate herb and floral notes emerge only after prolonged aeration. It’s richly textured in the mouth, with a seamless mouthfeel and no alcohol evident amid the dense, chocolaty flavors. Drink or hold.——J.C.(2/1/2007)—— 98