Further selected-out from the material for the Fahrlay and Falkenlay Beerenauslese was a 2006 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Capsule. Vanilla, butterscotch, candied citrus, brown-spiced apple jelly, white raisin, and black tea saturate the senses with high-toned intensity. Given the strong pull in a caramelized direction, this lacks the freshness or vibrant citricity of the best wines here today, but it does display amazing delicacy for all of its viscosity, and a wafting elegance in its long finish. There hardly seems much point in re-visiting this for another 20 years – if one wants to drink a Busch 2006 earlier as dessert wine there are more than enough options! – and it looks like another potential fifty year keeper. That said, I’ll try to re-taste at least a couple of these elixirs again this year to see whether they display different facets or reveal further complexity. Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienburg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which make him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Busch has been bottling nobly sweet Riesling since 1999, but never before – he hastens to inform me – in quantities remotely like those that nature imposed on him in 2006: Nine Auslesen, three Beerenauslesen, and a T.B.A.! Like Reinhard Lowenstein (and in a similar style), Busch is best-known inside Germany for his dry (or near-dry) single-site wines, which are not released for more than a year after harvest. (In fact, most of the 2006s had not finished fermenting yet when I visited last summer.)Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888-274-4312