The luxury cuvee is called Les Hautes Garrigues, named after the plateau of head-pruned old vines this comes from. A blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, and the rest Syrah and Cinsault aged in barrique, this has been a fabulous wine. (The 1989 is just hitting full stride.) The 2006 is sumptuous, with a dense purple color, beautiful opulence, fresh fruit, good acidity, and fabulous depth and richness. Why can’t the majority of producers in Gigondas hit such heights as consistently as Yves Gras does? Give this wine 2-3 years of bottle age and drink it over the following two decades. Yves Gras, one of the more charismatic figures of the Rhone Valley, has his own small, high-quality negociant business, and most of the wines merit serious consideration. He has hit a gem with the whites from Sablet, a village that is regarded by insiders as one of the finest sources for dry whites in the southern Rhone. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

This is starting to show mature hints of smoky cedar and mesquite, along with cocoa powder, black tea, mulled plum, braised chestnut and fig paste notes. The broad, tarry finish has lots of grip. Drink now through 2013. 150 cases imported.??–JM??Region: France / Southern Rh?ne / Gigondas Select to Add

More reserved, backward and tannic than the domaine’s 2006 Tradition, this wine features similar aromas of garrigue and flavors of chocolate, black olive, plum and spice. It’s firm on the finish, but boasts sufficient fruit to see it through. Drink 2012–2020.