In keeping with past vintages, this new release is finished at just under 3% residual sugar. Simple fruit flavors suggest grapefruit and fresh cut slices of orange. The wine seems to lose its focus in the mouth, and does not add any layers or complexity once you’ve latched on to that first taste. It’s competent but not up to the gorgeous scents and flavors of the past four or five vintages.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 85